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How to Hang Wallpaper
Article courtesy Wright Wallper
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- TOOLS FOR WALLCOVERING
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- A large
surface (table or flat door)
Stepladder/step stool
- Razor blade
holder or snap blade and scissors
- Plumb bob (or
make your own with a string, tack and weight such as a scissors
and chalk)
Smoothing brush to smooth paper
Wide metal puffy knife
Wallcovering seam roller
Wallcovering water tray (prepasted only)
Screwdriver for removing switch plates and outlet covers
Sponge, bucket and cleanup cloths
Drop cloth
Sandpaper and wallpaper sizing
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- 1. PREPARING
WALLS
Fill any
holes or cracks with spackling compound. Let dry, sand, smooth and
prime. Remove any previous wallpaper or vinyl wallcovering. Clean
walls so they are free of foreign substances. Thoroughly cure new
plaster walls and seam-tape and prime new drywall. Sand glossy
walls until dull. All walls should be sized.
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2. A STRAIGHT
START
Establish a true vertical line from ceiling to floor before
hanging the first strip. Start the project in an inconspicuous
spot such as behind a door, in a corner or next to a window. At
this spot, measure out the width of the wallcovering minus 1/2"
and tack a plumb bob at the ceiling line (Figure A). When
the plumb bob stops swaying, lightly mark the wall with a pencil
about 2" above the baseboard. Hold string taut against the
baseboard mark and give it a quick snap to mark a true vertical on
the wall. Use the chalk line as a guide for positioning the first
wallcovering strip, wrapping the strip into the corner and 1/2"
onto the adjoining wall. Strike a new plumb line before you start
each new wall.
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- 3. CUT AND
MATCH
Measure wall height in several spots. Take the highest number and
add 4' for trimming at ceiling and baseboard. Cut each
wallcovering strip this length after matching the pattern. If the
wallcovering has a pronounced pattern, plan to have an entire
motif below the final trimmed top edge for the most pleasing
effect. Roll out the next strip alongside the first strip. Match
patterns before cutting. Repeat with each strip before
cutting.
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- 4. PREPARING
PREPASTED WALLCOVERING
Most
wallcovering comes prepasted and is easily installed. Loosely
re-roll strips pattern side in, adhesive side out. Start at the
bottom of the strip so the top (which goes at the ceiling) is the
outer flap (Figure B). Fill a wallcovering water tray with
the rolls for timing. Lay a weighted object such as a screw driver
inside the roll to keep it immersed. Change water often to prevent
adhesive build-up on the wallcovering face.
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- 5. FOLDING THE
WALLCOVERING
Remove strip from water tray, unwinding it slowly, loosely fold
the strip pasted sides together without creasing (Figure
C). Follow the directions included in the rolls for adhesive
setup time (Usually 3 minutes).
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PREPARING
UNPASTED WALLCOVERING
Roll
out wallcovering strip, pattern side down. Apply adhesive to top
half of strip with a wide brush or roller, working from end to
center. Repeat this procedure with the bottom half. Follow
adhesive instructions for setup time.
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- 6. HANGING THE
STRIPS
Unfold top half of strip and apply to the wall leaving a 2"
overlap at the ceiling. Stroke the wallcovering with smoothing
brush from the center toward the edges until all wrinkles and air
bubbles are removed (Figure D). Unfold lower half and
repeat smoothing procedure. If wrinkles occur, pull strip away
from wall and rehang.
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- 7. TRIMMING TOP
AND BOTTOM
Trim strip at ceiling and baseboard with a razor or snap blade
knife and putty knife. Hold the putty knife against the ceiling or
trim and cut with the razor knife along the top of the putty knife
(Figure E). Change knife blades often for best results.
Reposition (do not drag) putty knife and slide blade along without
lifting for a clean, even cut.
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8.
BUTTING STRIPS
Fit strip edges together without any overlap or gap. Hang new
strip of wallcovering the same way as the previous one, carefully
matching patterns at seam. Use edge of previous strip as a
vertical guide (Figure F).Allow wallcovering adhesive to
set a minute, then if necessary roll the seam edges with a roller
to ensure adhesion and a tight seam. Wipe excess glue from the
wallcovering surface with a damp cloth or sponge as you go
(Figure G).
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- 9. ROUNDING
CORNERS
For inside corners, measure from edge of last strip to
corner (at ceiling, middle and baseboard). Add 1/2" to the widest
measurement and cut the next strip to this width. Save the
remainder. Hang the strip turning the corner 1/2" onto the
adjoining wall. Establish a plumb line on the new wall for hanging
the remaining part of the strip. Hang the remainder, overlapping
the 1/2" from the previous strip into the corner. For outside
corners, follow the same technique of measuring, cutting and
wrapping inside corners. Slit excess at the ceiling and baseboard
to smoothly make the turn around the corner. Strike a new plumb on
the adjoining wall to hang remainder of the strip.
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- 10. DOORS &
WINDOWS
Hang a strip over the door or window from ceiling to the floor.
Measure and cut excess with scissors. Cut diagonally at corner,
fit, and smooth. Smooth the rest of the strip up to the edge of
the molding. Finish by carefully cutting along the molding edge
with snap blade or razor using a putty knife as the
guide.
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- 11. OUTLETS
& SWITCH PLATES
Make sure all electricity is turned off, then remove outlet cover,
hang wallcovering and diagonally cut at the opening, then replace
outlet cover.
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12.HANGING
A BORDER
For prepasted borders going over a painted surface, cut border the
wall length plus 1/2". wet border. Accordion-fold loosely, paste
to paste, avoiding creasing (Figure H). Apply to wall.
Overlap at corners as indicated for full strips. To frame a window
or doorway, butt or miter corners. To miter, overlap border at a
90 degree angle and cut from outside edge to inside edge at 45
degrees. Remove excess wallcovering and butt the 45 degree edges
together to form a right angle of the border. When applying a
border over wallcovering, use a vinyl-to-vinyl
adhesive.
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- 13. COVERING A
CEILING
Preparation
and and application are the same as for walls, with these
differences: Cover ceilings first, then walls. Work crosswise
rather than lengthwise, since shorter strips are easier to handle.
Enlist the aid of a friend to help smooth strips onto the ceiling.
Use a broom or mop to get the wallcovering up (Figure I).
Once there, you can slide it into proper position and smooth with
a wallcovering brush (Figure J).
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HELPFUL HINTS
- Buy an extra
roll of wallcovering to keep in case an area is ever damaged.
- Unwanted bubbles
are easily removed by cutting an "X" into the bubble and carefully
lifting the edge. Apply paste and press back into
place.
- Note dye lot
number, pattern number and collection name for future
reference.
- Do not use
newspaper to cover your work table. Ink from paper may stain
wallcovering.
- Take along
scraps of wallcovering to coordinate colors and patterns when
shopping for other furnishings.
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The
Best Way to Remove Wallcoverings
Article courtesy Wright
Wallper.com
Score
with PaperTiger tool by making circular movements progressing
across or up and down the wall such that cuts approximately one
inch apart are made in the wallcovering.
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- Removing old
wallcoverings was once No. 1 on the do-it-yourselfer's Hate
Parade. But DIF, the only wallpaper stripper based on patented
enzyme action, the PaperTIger Wallcovering Scoring Tool and the
Paper Scraper have simplified the job. How to proceed depends on
what's on the wall.
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- Uncoated
wallpaper. Needs no scoring before applying DIF. Even multiple
layers come off easily.
- Paper-backed
vinyls, foils or mylars. Should delaminate as they are stripped,
leaving paper backing on the wall. Use DIF to remove
paper.
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- Waterproof
wallcoverings - coated (washable or scrubbable) wallpaper, painted
wallpaper, flocks, suedes, many vinyls, toils, mylars that can t
be pulled off wall. Check by spraying with water; if spray beads
up and runs down the wall. wallcovering is waterproof. Score with
PaperTiger. Then use DIF and Paper Scraper.
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- Fabric-backed
vinyls or other strippable wall-coverings. Usually can be pulled
off a properly Sealed wall. DIF Can then be used to wash off
residual paste.
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DIF
can be applied by garden sprayer, sponge or thich-nap paint
roller. For maximum control and minimum runoff application on with
a standard garden sprayer is recommended
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- PaperTiger is
easy to use. Just make circular movements across or up and down
the wall to score the wallcovering. The PaperTiger allows
penetration through the wall covering without damaging the wall
itself. Other perforating devices use spikes which easily gouge
drywall or plaster and cause unnecessary repairs to be made before
proceeding with the wallcovering job.
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- The PaperTiger
follows the contour of the wall including hollow areas or textured
wallcovering surfaces. The multi-directional PaperTiger cutter
assembly self-aligns to both the wall and the direction of travel,
thereby allowing the tool to be moved in any direction the user
desires.
- Use Zinsser 5
Paper Scraper to peel paper off the wall Often the paper will come
of in sheets.
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- Prepare DIF
solution by mixing contents of 22 oz. bottle with 2 gallons hot
tap water in ordinary garden sprayer. (From gallon size DIF
measure 3 cups per 2 gallons.) If sprayer is not available, apply
DIF water solution with a sponge from a bucket. Cover floor with
newspapers or dropcloths. Protect carpeted areas with waterproof
drop cloths.
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- Saturate wall
with solution, starting at the top and working down to the
floor.
- Circle room.
Allow 15 minutes for enzymes to attack paste. Reapply DIF, give it
an additional 15 minutes to react, then start to strip paper Work
a section at a time, first wetting it again. Use the Paper Scraper
to peel paper off the wall. Lastly, use left-over solution to help
wash last traces of paste off the walls. Rinse well with plain
water. Allow walls to dry thoroughly before repaperng or
painting.
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Dif
wallpaper stripper is a uniquely effective companion to the
PaperTiger and Paper Scraper that employs enzymatic breakdown of
wallpaper paste to make wallcovering removal easy. This sets it
apart from conventional wallcovering strippers based on wetting
agents or steamers which merely rewet and soften wallpaper paste.
Steamers are heavy, hot, dangerous and hard to use and only
marginally effective. DIF is based on a new principle that goes
beyond merely wetting paste. Its patented formula contains enzymes
in addition to an effective blend of wetting agents.
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- DlF's patented
formula combines an effective blend of wetting agents and enzymes
which penetrate the paper and quickly beak down the molecular
structure of the paste. The paste is converted to a thin watery
solution without adhesive properties. As a result, the bond
between the wallcovering and the wall is easily broken and the
paper comes off with little effort.
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- The Paper
Scraper is especially designed to aid in the removal of
wallcovering and residual paste after DIF has been applied. Paper
Scraper is faster and easier to use than traditional paint
scrapers or putty knives. Just hold Paper Scraper against the wall
and begin scraping. The scraper blade is fixed at the precise
angle needed for the greatest scraping effectiveness and
eliminates any chance of accidentally gouging the wall by twisting
the blade. The Paper Scraper blade is also easily removable for
cleaning or replacement.
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- After your
wallpaper has been removed.
- The first step
in re-wallpapering or painting is proper wall preparation. Use
Shieldz universal pre-wallcovering primer to prepare the stripped
walls for either hanging new wallcovering or painting. Shieldz
seals, primes and sizes in one step. No additional sizing is
needed. Wallcovering is ready to hang in just 2 hours. Any
wallcovering can be applied over Shieldz; Striippables * Peelables
* Fabric-backed types * Foils and Mylars * Grasscloths * Silks *
Other Textiles * Prepasted and non-prepasted wallpa- pers. Any
adhesive will adhere to a Shieldz- coated surface.
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- Article courtesy Wright
Wallper.com
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